Stop Gravel from Washing AwayHow should I install a curtain drain in my crawl space?Curtain drain in the crawl space - Part 3Should I be concerned about foundation seepage and what to do about it?Stabilizing a gravel driveway with massive holes and steep inclinationDid I do the right thing putting small stones under my deck?What is the best position for a French drain between a wall and a patio?Can I regrade this gravel section of yard myself?French drain did not solve the problemIs chert a suitable base for a concrete driveway?Will a french drain help the runoff ditch in front of my house?
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Stop Gravel from Washing Away
How should I install a curtain drain in my crawl space?Curtain drain in the crawl space - Part 3Should I be concerned about foundation seepage and what to do about it?Stabilizing a gravel driveway with massive holes and steep inclinationDid I do the right thing putting small stones under my deck?What is the best position for a French drain between a wall and a patio?Can I regrade this gravel section of yard myself?French drain did not solve the problemIs chert a suitable base for a concrete driveway?Will a french drain help the runoff ditch in front of my house?
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
My problem is that we have a long area of gravel used for parking for myself and several neighbors. When it rains really hard, the gravel alongside the road washes away and becomes a real danger for tires and probably the road itself. After googling (ducking, actually) the best way to avoid gravel washing away, it seems a French drain is the best method to do this. Only part of the lengthy gravel area is affected.
I'm wondering if I can just install a partial French drain for the affected area and leave the unaffected as is or if the lower French drain would cause the upper area to become affected. I don't have to dig to install the French drain on the affected area because I can just fish the gravel out and lay the perforated pipe in so I could do this in a day. However, if I have to do the upper part it will take considerably more time and effort to call 811, dig through at least a foot of gravel and lay it throughout the graveled area.
Also, I have been just going to our local rock quarry and getting crusher run 47 by the 5 gallon bucket which typically only costs about $6 when I get 5, but I have to make multiple trips. This happens at least 3-5 times a year.
Thanks!
There is a low spot, probaby 8-10 inches right under the red car and about 5 feet behind the red car. The area by the back car that has the lip of the road is barely affected. I've only ever put gravel there once.
drain driveway french-drain rain gravel
add a comment |
My problem is that we have a long area of gravel used for parking for myself and several neighbors. When it rains really hard, the gravel alongside the road washes away and becomes a real danger for tires and probably the road itself. After googling (ducking, actually) the best way to avoid gravel washing away, it seems a French drain is the best method to do this. Only part of the lengthy gravel area is affected.
I'm wondering if I can just install a partial French drain for the affected area and leave the unaffected as is or if the lower French drain would cause the upper area to become affected. I don't have to dig to install the French drain on the affected area because I can just fish the gravel out and lay the perforated pipe in so I could do this in a day. However, if I have to do the upper part it will take considerably more time and effort to call 811, dig through at least a foot of gravel and lay it throughout the graveled area.
Also, I have been just going to our local rock quarry and getting crusher run 47 by the 5 gallon bucket which typically only costs about $6 when I get 5, but I have to make multiple trips. This happens at least 3-5 times a year.
Thanks!
There is a low spot, probaby 8-10 inches right under the red car and about 5 feet behind the red car. The area by the back car that has the lip of the road is barely affected. I've only ever put gravel there once.
drain driveway french-drain rain gravel
The gray area is gravel, too. Forgot the label. And the affected area has gotten to be as big as about 1ft 6in wide.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 11:10
The diagram is great, but a picture would really help give context.
– Daniel Griscom
Jul 6 at 12:01
I think a French drain in gravel might collapse under the force of vehicles driving over it. I think periodic replenishing with crusher run is your best bet. Isn't crusher run designed to lock together and resist movement? Is there another grade which is even more resistant? Of course you don't want something which could damage car tires.
– Jim Stewart
Jul 6 at 12:07
@DanielGriscom, added photo.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 12:59
@JimStewart I honestly didn't know about crusher run being built for this application. I just went to the quarry and grabbed what looked closest and it has worked decently well. Just wasn't sure if maybe I could do something more long term without breaking the bank.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:03
add a comment |
My problem is that we have a long area of gravel used for parking for myself and several neighbors. When it rains really hard, the gravel alongside the road washes away and becomes a real danger for tires and probably the road itself. After googling (ducking, actually) the best way to avoid gravel washing away, it seems a French drain is the best method to do this. Only part of the lengthy gravel area is affected.
I'm wondering if I can just install a partial French drain for the affected area and leave the unaffected as is or if the lower French drain would cause the upper area to become affected. I don't have to dig to install the French drain on the affected area because I can just fish the gravel out and lay the perforated pipe in so I could do this in a day. However, if I have to do the upper part it will take considerably more time and effort to call 811, dig through at least a foot of gravel and lay it throughout the graveled area.
Also, I have been just going to our local rock quarry and getting crusher run 47 by the 5 gallon bucket which typically only costs about $6 when I get 5, but I have to make multiple trips. This happens at least 3-5 times a year.
Thanks!
There is a low spot, probaby 8-10 inches right under the red car and about 5 feet behind the red car. The area by the back car that has the lip of the road is barely affected. I've only ever put gravel there once.
drain driveway french-drain rain gravel
My problem is that we have a long area of gravel used for parking for myself and several neighbors. When it rains really hard, the gravel alongside the road washes away and becomes a real danger for tires and probably the road itself. After googling (ducking, actually) the best way to avoid gravel washing away, it seems a French drain is the best method to do this. Only part of the lengthy gravel area is affected.
I'm wondering if I can just install a partial French drain for the affected area and leave the unaffected as is or if the lower French drain would cause the upper area to become affected. I don't have to dig to install the French drain on the affected area because I can just fish the gravel out and lay the perforated pipe in so I could do this in a day. However, if I have to do the upper part it will take considerably more time and effort to call 811, dig through at least a foot of gravel and lay it throughout the graveled area.
Also, I have been just going to our local rock quarry and getting crusher run 47 by the 5 gallon bucket which typically only costs about $6 when I get 5, but I have to make multiple trips. This happens at least 3-5 times a year.
Thanks!
There is a low spot, probaby 8-10 inches right under the red car and about 5 feet behind the red car. The area by the back car that has the lip of the road is barely affected. I've only ever put gravel there once.
drain driveway french-drain rain gravel
drain driveway french-drain rain gravel
edited Jul 6 at 13:48
GibralterTop
asked Jul 6 at 11:00
GibralterTopGibralterTop
1065 bronze badges
1065 bronze badges
The gray area is gravel, too. Forgot the label. And the affected area has gotten to be as big as about 1ft 6in wide.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 11:10
The diagram is great, but a picture would really help give context.
– Daniel Griscom
Jul 6 at 12:01
I think a French drain in gravel might collapse under the force of vehicles driving over it. I think periodic replenishing with crusher run is your best bet. Isn't crusher run designed to lock together and resist movement? Is there another grade which is even more resistant? Of course you don't want something which could damage car tires.
– Jim Stewart
Jul 6 at 12:07
@DanielGriscom, added photo.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 12:59
@JimStewart I honestly didn't know about crusher run being built for this application. I just went to the quarry and grabbed what looked closest and it has worked decently well. Just wasn't sure if maybe I could do something more long term without breaking the bank.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:03
add a comment |
The gray area is gravel, too. Forgot the label. And the affected area has gotten to be as big as about 1ft 6in wide.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 11:10
The diagram is great, but a picture would really help give context.
– Daniel Griscom
Jul 6 at 12:01
I think a French drain in gravel might collapse under the force of vehicles driving over it. I think periodic replenishing with crusher run is your best bet. Isn't crusher run designed to lock together and resist movement? Is there another grade which is even more resistant? Of course you don't want something which could damage car tires.
– Jim Stewart
Jul 6 at 12:07
@DanielGriscom, added photo.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 12:59
@JimStewart I honestly didn't know about crusher run being built for this application. I just went to the quarry and grabbed what looked closest and it has worked decently well. Just wasn't sure if maybe I could do something more long term without breaking the bank.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:03
The gray area is gravel, too. Forgot the label. And the affected area has gotten to be as big as about 1ft 6in wide.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 11:10
The gray area is gravel, too. Forgot the label. And the affected area has gotten to be as big as about 1ft 6in wide.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 11:10
The diagram is great, but a picture would really help give context.
– Daniel Griscom
Jul 6 at 12:01
The diagram is great, but a picture would really help give context.
– Daniel Griscom
Jul 6 at 12:01
I think a French drain in gravel might collapse under the force of vehicles driving over it. I think periodic replenishing with crusher run is your best bet. Isn't crusher run designed to lock together and resist movement? Is there another grade which is even more resistant? Of course you don't want something which could damage car tires.
– Jim Stewart
Jul 6 at 12:07
I think a French drain in gravel might collapse under the force of vehicles driving over it. I think periodic replenishing with crusher run is your best bet. Isn't crusher run designed to lock together and resist movement? Is there another grade which is even more resistant? Of course you don't want something which could damage car tires.
– Jim Stewart
Jul 6 at 12:07
@DanielGriscom, added photo.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 12:59
@DanielGriscom, added photo.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 12:59
@JimStewart I honestly didn't know about crusher run being built for this application. I just went to the quarry and grabbed what looked closest and it has worked decently well. Just wasn't sure if maybe I could do something more long term without breaking the bank.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:03
@JimStewart I honestly didn't know about crusher run being built for this application. I just went to the quarry and grabbed what looked closest and it has worked decently well. Just wasn't sure if maybe I could do something more long term without breaking the bank.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:03
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
There are gravel driveway stabilizer products made to solve this kind of problem.
They typically take the form of a mesh/lattice of some sort - sometimes flexible/fabric
while others are a ridgid plastic
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
add a comment |
A guess: the affected area receives concentrated drainage from the road surface. I predict the water runs along the road and then escapes off into the gravel at one spot, which receives a torrent and washes away. The unaffected area receives no drainage because the entirety of the road drainage is going thru the affected area.
You could go out when it rains hard and see if this is the case.
Rather than mess with gravel, you could divert the water. Keep it on the road until it gets to the storm drain, or divert it off the road in smaller manageable amounts across a longer stretch of road. You could build up the edge of the road and make a hump to keep the water on the road. Or you could lay diagonals of concrete patch compound across the road to bring water across into the gravel in less concentrated amounts.
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
add a comment |
Perhaps machine compaction of the area would reduce the rate of erosion.
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
add a comment |
Crushed stone then compacted
Crushed stone #411 – A mixture of stone dust and #57 stone. For driveways, roads and as a base for retaining walls. It can also be used to patch holes in paved areas. The dust mixes with the larger stone and settles well.
Crushed stone is a basic material used in various capacities. It is a widely used raw asset in the construction industry. The extraction of hard rock that is turned into various crushed stone grades is a great economic indicator. Crushed stone is and will continue to be a very integral part of things we build.
If you are working on a construction project and get help deciding what crushed stone grade you need.
https://www.braenstone.com/crushed-stone-grades/
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
There are gravel driveway stabilizer products made to solve this kind of problem.
They typically take the form of a mesh/lattice of some sort - sometimes flexible/fabric
while others are a ridgid plastic
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
add a comment |
There are gravel driveway stabilizer products made to solve this kind of problem.
They typically take the form of a mesh/lattice of some sort - sometimes flexible/fabric
while others are a ridgid plastic
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
add a comment |
There are gravel driveway stabilizer products made to solve this kind of problem.
They typically take the form of a mesh/lattice of some sort - sometimes flexible/fabric
while others are a ridgid plastic
There are gravel driveway stabilizer products made to solve this kind of problem.
They typically take the form of a mesh/lattice of some sort - sometimes flexible/fabric
while others are a ridgid plastic
answered Jul 6 at 12:47
brhansbrhans
3,0221 gold badge12 silver badges22 bronze badges
3,0221 gold badge12 silver badges22 bronze badges
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
add a comment |
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
I see. That would be the ideal solution to redo the entire gravel section I think but I'm really only trying to fix the pits and valleys that form. I'm thinking maybe the fabric would work if I cut it, which I would think then wouldn't really have a big enough anchor and end up washing out too?
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:08
add a comment |
A guess: the affected area receives concentrated drainage from the road surface. I predict the water runs along the road and then escapes off into the gravel at one spot, which receives a torrent and washes away. The unaffected area receives no drainage because the entirety of the road drainage is going thru the affected area.
You could go out when it rains hard and see if this is the case.
Rather than mess with gravel, you could divert the water. Keep it on the road until it gets to the storm drain, or divert it off the road in smaller manageable amounts across a longer stretch of road. You could build up the edge of the road and make a hump to keep the water on the road. Or you could lay diagonals of concrete patch compound across the road to bring water across into the gravel in less concentrated amounts.
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
add a comment |
A guess: the affected area receives concentrated drainage from the road surface. I predict the water runs along the road and then escapes off into the gravel at one spot, which receives a torrent and washes away. The unaffected area receives no drainage because the entirety of the road drainage is going thru the affected area.
You could go out when it rains hard and see if this is the case.
Rather than mess with gravel, you could divert the water. Keep it on the road until it gets to the storm drain, or divert it off the road in smaller manageable amounts across a longer stretch of road. You could build up the edge of the road and make a hump to keep the water on the road. Or you could lay diagonals of concrete patch compound across the road to bring water across into the gravel in less concentrated amounts.
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
add a comment |
A guess: the affected area receives concentrated drainage from the road surface. I predict the water runs along the road and then escapes off into the gravel at one spot, which receives a torrent and washes away. The unaffected area receives no drainage because the entirety of the road drainage is going thru the affected area.
You could go out when it rains hard and see if this is the case.
Rather than mess with gravel, you could divert the water. Keep it on the road until it gets to the storm drain, or divert it off the road in smaller manageable amounts across a longer stretch of road. You could build up the edge of the road and make a hump to keep the water on the road. Or you could lay diagonals of concrete patch compound across the road to bring water across into the gravel in less concentrated amounts.
A guess: the affected area receives concentrated drainage from the road surface. I predict the water runs along the road and then escapes off into the gravel at one spot, which receives a torrent and washes away. The unaffected area receives no drainage because the entirety of the road drainage is going thru the affected area.
You could go out when it rains hard and see if this is the case.
Rather than mess with gravel, you could divert the water. Keep it on the road until it gets to the storm drain, or divert it off the road in smaller manageable amounts across a longer stretch of road. You could build up the edge of the road and make a hump to keep the water on the road. Or you could lay diagonals of concrete patch compound across the road to bring water across into the gravel in less concentrated amounts.
answered Jul 6 at 23:24
WillkWillk
6066 bronze badges
6066 bronze badges
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
add a comment |
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
I'll try piling it up over the weekend higher than the edge of the road. Let you know the next time it downpours.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:19
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
Also, there is another gravel area after ours that has an asphalt hump that diverts water that is city owned. Maybe this is something I can take up with the city. The storm drain in the depiction is higher up hill but there is another one after the second gravel area. Since the storm drain higher up gets overloaded, maybe the city can add an asphalt hump to divert it.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:23
add a comment |
Perhaps machine compaction of the area would reduce the rate of erosion.
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
add a comment |
Perhaps machine compaction of the area would reduce the rate of erosion.
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
add a comment |
Perhaps machine compaction of the area would reduce the rate of erosion.
Perhaps machine compaction of the area would reduce the rate of erosion.
answered Jul 6 at 12:14
Jim StewartJim Stewart
12.6k1 gold badge13 silver badges32 bronze badges
12.6k1 gold badge13 silver badges32 bronze badges
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
add a comment |
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
Would that have adverse effects on the road though? Road is city owned.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:09
add a comment |
Crushed stone then compacted
Crushed stone #411 – A mixture of stone dust and #57 stone. For driveways, roads and as a base for retaining walls. It can also be used to patch holes in paved areas. The dust mixes with the larger stone and settles well.
Crushed stone is a basic material used in various capacities. It is a widely used raw asset in the construction industry. The extraction of hard rock that is turned into various crushed stone grades is a great economic indicator. Crushed stone is and will continue to be a very integral part of things we build.
If you are working on a construction project and get help deciding what crushed stone grade you need.
https://www.braenstone.com/crushed-stone-grades/
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
add a comment |
Crushed stone then compacted
Crushed stone #411 – A mixture of stone dust and #57 stone. For driveways, roads and as a base for retaining walls. It can also be used to patch holes in paved areas. The dust mixes with the larger stone and settles well.
Crushed stone is a basic material used in various capacities. It is a widely used raw asset in the construction industry. The extraction of hard rock that is turned into various crushed stone grades is a great economic indicator. Crushed stone is and will continue to be a very integral part of things we build.
If you are working on a construction project and get help deciding what crushed stone grade you need.
https://www.braenstone.com/crushed-stone-grades/
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
add a comment |
Crushed stone then compacted
Crushed stone #411 – A mixture of stone dust and #57 stone. For driveways, roads and as a base for retaining walls. It can also be used to patch holes in paved areas. The dust mixes with the larger stone and settles well.
Crushed stone is a basic material used in various capacities. It is a widely used raw asset in the construction industry. The extraction of hard rock that is turned into various crushed stone grades is a great economic indicator. Crushed stone is and will continue to be a very integral part of things we build.
If you are working on a construction project and get help deciding what crushed stone grade you need.
https://www.braenstone.com/crushed-stone-grades/
Crushed stone then compacted
Crushed stone #411 – A mixture of stone dust and #57 stone. For driveways, roads and as a base for retaining walls. It can also be used to patch holes in paved areas. The dust mixes with the larger stone and settles well.
Crushed stone is a basic material used in various capacities. It is a widely used raw asset in the construction industry. The extraction of hard rock that is turned into various crushed stone grades is a great economic indicator. Crushed stone is and will continue to be a very integral part of things we build.
If you are working on a construction project and get help deciding what crushed stone grade you need.
https://www.braenstone.com/crushed-stone-grades/
answered Jul 6 at 13:48
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
2341 silver badge8 bronze badges
2341 silver badge8 bronze badges
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
add a comment |
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
I think this is the equivalent of crusher run. We don't have those grades at our quarry but after talking with the gentleman at the desk, crusher run is stone plus the dust.
– GibralterTop
Jul 8 at 15:15
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Some clean stones with hard sharp edges compact well into brick/concrete like density , others do not. There is a solution with a vibratory compactor. But dust will wash away.
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 15:36
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
Quarter down crushed limestone will work if compacted with 50lb tamper or vibratory compactor
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
Jul 8 at 16:17
add a comment |
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The gray area is gravel, too. Forgot the label. And the affected area has gotten to be as big as about 1ft 6in wide.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 11:10
The diagram is great, but a picture would really help give context.
– Daniel Griscom
Jul 6 at 12:01
I think a French drain in gravel might collapse under the force of vehicles driving over it. I think periodic replenishing with crusher run is your best bet. Isn't crusher run designed to lock together and resist movement? Is there another grade which is even more resistant? Of course you don't want something which could damage car tires.
– Jim Stewart
Jul 6 at 12:07
@DanielGriscom, added photo.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 12:59
@JimStewart I honestly didn't know about crusher run being built for this application. I just went to the quarry and grabbed what looked closest and it has worked decently well. Just wasn't sure if maybe I could do something more long term without breaking the bank.
– GibralterTop
Jul 6 at 13:03