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How to make attic easier to traverse?
Can I move second-floor duct-work from the floor to the atticHow can I increase the effectiveness of the A/C in a hot 2nd floor converted attic master suite?How Much Attic Insulation? (R-value vs Ceiling Bowing)Is there a proper way to vent a garage into an attic?Add light and outlet to atticReattach separated range hood duct in attic, without accessConsidering replacing blown cellulose on attic floor with open cell spray foam. Should I just leave well enough alone?How long can I run a vent duct for a new bathroom exhaust on an old house that doesn't vent out properly?Sloped ceiling - remove hot air with exhaust fanProper way to seal attic space from the living space
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My attic is a maze of wires, air ducts and PVC water pipes. I went just one room over from the attic entrance and it took me a solid 30 minutes just to go there and back. Would it be unreasonable to add some sort of pathway up there to make it easier to get around? And what do you recommend. My main concern is to reduce how much time I (or anyone) has to spend up there working. I live in Florida and the attic gets super hot. My second concern is about accidentally breaking pressurized PVC water lines that are all over the place.
It's a wood truss roof. There's lots of ridges/valleys and differences in ceiling height. So in the attic you will run into a 'wall' where the ceiling on the room below is much higher than the one next to it. It seems like almost all of the floor places that would be good to walk are obstructed with wires/ducts. There's a lot of space above that high in the air.
Looking at the first picture, the maximum width beneath the horizontal pipes and above the wiring is ~2 feet.
The air conditioner is ~14 feet long. To get into the area on the left I've just been walking all the way around the unit to the right. You come into other obstacles when you get on the other side of the machine tho.
Measured the temperature in the attic today at 1:30PM. Today was a mostly overcast day with rain. High temp is 110F. Low temp near edges of the attic on the floor was ~87F.
electrical plumbing insulation attic ducts
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
add a comment |
My attic is a maze of wires, air ducts and PVC water pipes. I went just one room over from the attic entrance and it took me a solid 30 minutes just to go there and back. Would it be unreasonable to add some sort of pathway up there to make it easier to get around? And what do you recommend. My main concern is to reduce how much time I (or anyone) has to spend up there working. I live in Florida and the attic gets super hot. My second concern is about accidentally breaking pressurized PVC water lines that are all over the place.
It's a wood truss roof. There's lots of ridges/valleys and differences in ceiling height. So in the attic you will run into a 'wall' where the ceiling on the room below is much higher than the one next to it. It seems like almost all of the floor places that would be good to walk are obstructed with wires/ducts. There's a lot of space above that high in the air.
Looking at the first picture, the maximum width beneath the horizontal pipes and above the wiring is ~2 feet.
The air conditioner is ~14 feet long. To get into the area on the left I've just been walking all the way around the unit to the right. You come into other obstacles when you get on the other side of the machine tho.
Measured the temperature in the attic today at 1:30PM. Today was a mostly overcast day with rain. High temp is 110F. Low temp near edges of the attic on the floor was ~87F.
electrical plumbing insulation attic ducts
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
3
Is it a truss roof? How about a picture or two? What kind of work do you anticipate needing to do that would benefit from this pathway?
– mike65535
Aug 6 at 17:23
1
@mike65535, Yes it's wooden trusses. I edited my question to add that. Kind of work? Adding security cameras, adding fans to several bathrooms, updating ceiling fans. Adding a fan to a room with high ceiling.
– HenryM
Aug 6 at 18:19
2
Three 2X4X1/2" pieces of plywood. Put them over the trusses in the direction you want to go. You can get away with two, but I like having on permanently in at the trap-door. I had to drill a hole in them, rope, and pull them up through the attic window, as they would not fit through the trap-door.
– Wayfaring Stranger
Aug 6 at 20:09
can you show a picture? from the entrance location, of course.
– Skaperen
Aug 7 at 1:48
@Skaperen pictures added.
– HenryM
Aug 7 at 18:03
add a comment |
My attic is a maze of wires, air ducts and PVC water pipes. I went just one room over from the attic entrance and it took me a solid 30 minutes just to go there and back. Would it be unreasonable to add some sort of pathway up there to make it easier to get around? And what do you recommend. My main concern is to reduce how much time I (or anyone) has to spend up there working. I live in Florida and the attic gets super hot. My second concern is about accidentally breaking pressurized PVC water lines that are all over the place.
It's a wood truss roof. There's lots of ridges/valleys and differences in ceiling height. So in the attic you will run into a 'wall' where the ceiling on the room below is much higher than the one next to it. It seems like almost all of the floor places that would be good to walk are obstructed with wires/ducts. There's a lot of space above that high in the air.
Looking at the first picture, the maximum width beneath the horizontal pipes and above the wiring is ~2 feet.
The air conditioner is ~14 feet long. To get into the area on the left I've just been walking all the way around the unit to the right. You come into other obstacles when you get on the other side of the machine tho.
Measured the temperature in the attic today at 1:30PM. Today was a mostly overcast day with rain. High temp is 110F. Low temp near edges of the attic on the floor was ~87F.
electrical plumbing insulation attic ducts
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
My attic is a maze of wires, air ducts and PVC water pipes. I went just one room over from the attic entrance and it took me a solid 30 minutes just to go there and back. Would it be unreasonable to add some sort of pathway up there to make it easier to get around? And what do you recommend. My main concern is to reduce how much time I (or anyone) has to spend up there working. I live in Florida and the attic gets super hot. My second concern is about accidentally breaking pressurized PVC water lines that are all over the place.
It's a wood truss roof. There's lots of ridges/valleys and differences in ceiling height. So in the attic you will run into a 'wall' where the ceiling on the room below is much higher than the one next to it. It seems like almost all of the floor places that would be good to walk are obstructed with wires/ducts. There's a lot of space above that high in the air.
Looking at the first picture, the maximum width beneath the horizontal pipes and above the wiring is ~2 feet.
The air conditioner is ~14 feet long. To get into the area on the left I've just been walking all the way around the unit to the right. You come into other obstacles when you get on the other side of the machine tho.
Measured the temperature in the attic today at 1:30PM. Today was a mostly overcast day with rain. High temp is 110F. Low temp near edges of the attic on the floor was ~87F.
electrical plumbing insulation attic ducts
electrical plumbing insulation attic ducts
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
edited Aug 7 at 22:07
HenryM
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
asked Aug 6 at 17:14
HenryMHenryM
1165 bronze badges
1165 bronze badges
3
Is it a truss roof? How about a picture or two? What kind of work do you anticipate needing to do that would benefit from this pathway?
– mike65535
Aug 6 at 17:23
1
@mike65535, Yes it's wooden trusses. I edited my question to add that. Kind of work? Adding security cameras, adding fans to several bathrooms, updating ceiling fans. Adding a fan to a room with high ceiling.
– HenryM
Aug 6 at 18:19
2
Three 2X4X1/2" pieces of plywood. Put them over the trusses in the direction you want to go. You can get away with two, but I like having on permanently in at the trap-door. I had to drill a hole in them, rope, and pull them up through the attic window, as they would not fit through the trap-door.
– Wayfaring Stranger
Aug 6 at 20:09
can you show a picture? from the entrance location, of course.
– Skaperen
Aug 7 at 1:48
@Skaperen pictures added.
– HenryM
Aug 7 at 18:03
add a comment |
3
Is it a truss roof? How about a picture or two? What kind of work do you anticipate needing to do that would benefit from this pathway?
– mike65535
Aug 6 at 17:23
1
@mike65535, Yes it's wooden trusses. I edited my question to add that. Kind of work? Adding security cameras, adding fans to several bathrooms, updating ceiling fans. Adding a fan to a room with high ceiling.
– HenryM
Aug 6 at 18:19
2
Three 2X4X1/2" pieces of plywood. Put them over the trusses in the direction you want to go. You can get away with two, but I like having on permanently in at the trap-door. I had to drill a hole in them, rope, and pull them up through the attic window, as they would not fit through the trap-door.
– Wayfaring Stranger
Aug 6 at 20:09
can you show a picture? from the entrance location, of course.
– Skaperen
Aug 7 at 1:48
@Skaperen pictures added.
– HenryM
Aug 7 at 18:03
3
3
Is it a truss roof? How about a picture or two? What kind of work do you anticipate needing to do that would benefit from this pathway?
– mike65535
Aug 6 at 17:23
Is it a truss roof? How about a picture or two? What kind of work do you anticipate needing to do that would benefit from this pathway?
– mike65535
Aug 6 at 17:23
1
1
@mike65535, Yes it's wooden trusses. I edited my question to add that. Kind of work? Adding security cameras, adding fans to several bathrooms, updating ceiling fans. Adding a fan to a room with high ceiling.
– HenryM
Aug 6 at 18:19
@mike65535, Yes it's wooden trusses. I edited my question to add that. Kind of work? Adding security cameras, adding fans to several bathrooms, updating ceiling fans. Adding a fan to a room with high ceiling.
– HenryM
Aug 6 at 18:19
2
2
Three 2X4X1/2" pieces of plywood. Put them over the trusses in the direction you want to go. You can get away with two, but I like having on permanently in at the trap-door. I had to drill a hole in them, rope, and pull them up through the attic window, as they would not fit through the trap-door.
– Wayfaring Stranger
Aug 6 at 20:09
Three 2X4X1/2" pieces of plywood. Put them over the trusses in the direction you want to go. You can get away with two, but I like having on permanently in at the trap-door. I had to drill a hole in them, rope, and pull them up through the attic window, as they would not fit through the trap-door.
– Wayfaring Stranger
Aug 6 at 20:09
can you show a picture? from the entrance location, of course.
– Skaperen
Aug 7 at 1:48
can you show a picture? from the entrance location, of course.
– Skaperen
Aug 7 at 1:48
@Skaperen pictures added.
– HenryM
Aug 7 at 18:03
@Skaperen pictures added.
– HenryM
Aug 7 at 18:03
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them over the rafters and then plywood on top, like a false floor. You do not want to notch your rafter. No matter what you do, your time will be limited just because of the heat. You have to make sure you don't get dehydrated. The last thing you want to happen is be back there working and start to get dizzy and then take 30 minutes to get out....been there, done that, not fun.
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
1
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
add a comment |
Where there are trusses, it's relatively easy to add short horizontal supports between any two uprights. Then you can add planks to walk on between the horizontals. Use a string line to ensure that a run of horizontal supports line up and the plank sits securely.
You can determine the thickness of plank required by testing outdoors. Standard floor boards are designed to have supports about every 14-18". A scaffolding plank will span about 4'.
You can use a succession of horizontal pieces to make a ladder, and steps are worth having if you need to change level by more than 18". If any of your planks are significantly sloped, you can nail small battens across them for grip.
I've never had to deal with Florida sun, but I'd guess an attic is coolest at dawn, so it might be worth getting up early to work there.
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
2
active
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votes
I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them over the rafters and then plywood on top, like a false floor. You do not want to notch your rafter. No matter what you do, your time will be limited just because of the heat. You have to make sure you don't get dehydrated. The last thing you want to happen is be back there working and start to get dizzy and then take 30 minutes to get out....been there, done that, not fun.
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
1
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
add a comment |
I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them over the rafters and then plywood on top, like a false floor. You do not want to notch your rafter. No matter what you do, your time will be limited just because of the heat. You have to make sure you don't get dehydrated. The last thing you want to happen is be back there working and start to get dizzy and then take 30 minutes to get out....been there, done that, not fun.
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
1
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
add a comment |
I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them over the rafters and then plywood on top, like a false floor. You do not want to notch your rafter. No matter what you do, your time will be limited just because of the heat. You have to make sure you don't get dehydrated. The last thing you want to happen is be back there working and start to get dizzy and then take 30 minutes to get out....been there, done that, not fun.
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
I live in Florida too so I know exactly what you mean about hot attics. I had the same problem except for the pvc water pipes. I put up a number of 2 by 8 feet of 3/4 inch plywood on the rafters. Where it was possible to move over some of the cables, I did it. where I couldn't move them, I took some 2x4's, notched them for the wires to go thru and put them over the rafters and then plywood on top, like a false floor. You do not want to notch your rafter. No matter what you do, your time will be limited just because of the heat. You have to make sure you don't get dehydrated. The last thing you want to happen is be back there working and start to get dizzy and then take 30 minutes to get out....been there, done that, not fun.
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
answered Aug 6 at 18:04
JACKJACK
2,08912 bronze badges
2,08912 bronze badges
1
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
add a comment |
1
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
1
1
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
Yep, other than curse your builder(s) (which solves nothing, but you'll probably do it anyway) putting in solid pathways (and permanent switched lighting, IMHO) is the best way to improve getting around in an attic. If you can also improve the ventilation it will help the temperature SOME, but you won't get miracles in Florida, other than getting up before dawn to do any work up there.
– Ecnerwal
Aug 7 at 2:42
add a comment |
Where there are trusses, it's relatively easy to add short horizontal supports between any two uprights. Then you can add planks to walk on between the horizontals. Use a string line to ensure that a run of horizontal supports line up and the plank sits securely.
You can determine the thickness of plank required by testing outdoors. Standard floor boards are designed to have supports about every 14-18". A scaffolding plank will span about 4'.
You can use a succession of horizontal pieces to make a ladder, and steps are worth having if you need to change level by more than 18". If any of your planks are significantly sloped, you can nail small battens across them for grip.
I've never had to deal with Florida sun, but I'd guess an attic is coolest at dawn, so it might be worth getting up early to work there.
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
add a comment |
Where there are trusses, it's relatively easy to add short horizontal supports between any two uprights. Then you can add planks to walk on between the horizontals. Use a string line to ensure that a run of horizontal supports line up and the plank sits securely.
You can determine the thickness of plank required by testing outdoors. Standard floor boards are designed to have supports about every 14-18". A scaffolding plank will span about 4'.
You can use a succession of horizontal pieces to make a ladder, and steps are worth having if you need to change level by more than 18". If any of your planks are significantly sloped, you can nail small battens across them for grip.
I've never had to deal with Florida sun, but I'd guess an attic is coolest at dawn, so it might be worth getting up early to work there.
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
add a comment |
Where there are trusses, it's relatively easy to add short horizontal supports between any two uprights. Then you can add planks to walk on between the horizontals. Use a string line to ensure that a run of horizontal supports line up and the plank sits securely.
You can determine the thickness of plank required by testing outdoors. Standard floor boards are designed to have supports about every 14-18". A scaffolding plank will span about 4'.
You can use a succession of horizontal pieces to make a ladder, and steps are worth having if you need to change level by more than 18". If any of your planks are significantly sloped, you can nail small battens across them for grip.
I've never had to deal with Florida sun, but I'd guess an attic is coolest at dawn, so it might be worth getting up early to work there.
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
Where there are trusses, it's relatively easy to add short horizontal supports between any two uprights. Then you can add planks to walk on between the horizontals. Use a string line to ensure that a run of horizontal supports line up and the plank sits securely.
You can determine the thickness of plank required by testing outdoors. Standard floor boards are designed to have supports about every 14-18". A scaffolding plank will span about 4'.
You can use a succession of horizontal pieces to make a ladder, and steps are worth having if you need to change level by more than 18". If any of your planks are significantly sloped, you can nail small battens across them for grip.
I've never had to deal with Florida sun, but I'd guess an attic is coolest at dawn, so it might be worth getting up early to work there.
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
answered Aug 7 at 11:37
Robin BennettRobin Bennett
1213 bronze badges
1213 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
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3
Is it a truss roof? How about a picture or two? What kind of work do you anticipate needing to do that would benefit from this pathway?
– mike65535
Aug 6 at 17:23
1
@mike65535, Yes it's wooden trusses. I edited my question to add that. Kind of work? Adding security cameras, adding fans to several bathrooms, updating ceiling fans. Adding a fan to a room with high ceiling.
– HenryM
Aug 6 at 18:19
2
Three 2X4X1/2" pieces of plywood. Put them over the trusses in the direction you want to go. You can get away with two, but I like having on permanently in at the trap-door. I had to drill a hole in them, rope, and pull them up through the attic window, as they would not fit through the trap-door.
– Wayfaring Stranger
Aug 6 at 20:09
can you show a picture? from the entrance location, of course.
– Skaperen
Aug 7 at 1:48
@Skaperen pictures added.
– HenryM
Aug 7 at 18:03