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What happens to foam insulation board after you pour concrete slab?







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17















I plan on making a garage out of a large carport, and I've watched and I understood how to properly insulate a new concrete slab. 4 inches of gravel, vapor barrier, 2 inch foam board, 2 inches of sand and then 4-6 inches of poured concrete with mesh rebar in it.



My question is, how in the world will 2 inch foam board support all the concrete? Especially when I park both my trucks on top of it! Won't it crush in some parts and be uneven underground. Why does it make a good base?










share|improve this question







New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.














  • 1





    If going to all the work to insulate why not put some poly line for hydronic heating, if you work in your garage in the winter it is really nice to have a warm floor. I did that with 1 bay in my last home and it almost kept the shop warm if I would have done all 3 I would not have needed the heater. But with hydronic heat it needs to be on for a long time so I used to keep mine at 50 and turn it up to 70 while I was in the shop.

    – Ed Beal
    May 30 at 22:03






  • 1





    I forgot to mention i'm going for this, good call

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:09

















17















I plan on making a garage out of a large carport, and I've watched and I understood how to properly insulate a new concrete slab. 4 inches of gravel, vapor barrier, 2 inch foam board, 2 inches of sand and then 4-6 inches of poured concrete with mesh rebar in it.



My question is, how in the world will 2 inch foam board support all the concrete? Especially when I park both my trucks on top of it! Won't it crush in some parts and be uneven underground. Why does it make a good base?










share|improve this question







New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.














  • 1





    If going to all the work to insulate why not put some poly line for hydronic heating, if you work in your garage in the winter it is really nice to have a warm floor. I did that with 1 bay in my last home and it almost kept the shop warm if I would have done all 3 I would not have needed the heater. But with hydronic heat it needs to be on for a long time so I used to keep mine at 50 and turn it up to 70 while I was in the shop.

    – Ed Beal
    May 30 at 22:03






  • 1





    I forgot to mention i'm going for this, good call

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:09













17












17








17


1






I plan on making a garage out of a large carport, and I've watched and I understood how to properly insulate a new concrete slab. 4 inches of gravel, vapor barrier, 2 inch foam board, 2 inches of sand and then 4-6 inches of poured concrete with mesh rebar in it.



My question is, how in the world will 2 inch foam board support all the concrete? Especially when I park both my trucks on top of it! Won't it crush in some parts and be uneven underground. Why does it make a good base?










share|improve this question







New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I plan on making a garage out of a large carport, and I've watched and I understood how to properly insulate a new concrete slab. 4 inches of gravel, vapor barrier, 2 inch foam board, 2 inches of sand and then 4-6 inches of poured concrete with mesh rebar in it.



My question is, how in the world will 2 inch foam board support all the concrete? Especially when I park both my trucks on top of it! Won't it crush in some parts and be uneven underground. Why does it make a good base?







concrete insulation






share|improve this question







New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.










share|improve this question







New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








share|improve this question




share|improve this question






New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








asked May 30 at 21:21









JeffyxJeffyx

8816




8816




New contributor



Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




New contributor




Jeffyx is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









  • 1





    If going to all the work to insulate why not put some poly line for hydronic heating, if you work in your garage in the winter it is really nice to have a warm floor. I did that with 1 bay in my last home and it almost kept the shop warm if I would have done all 3 I would not have needed the heater. But with hydronic heat it needs to be on for a long time so I used to keep mine at 50 and turn it up to 70 while I was in the shop.

    – Ed Beal
    May 30 at 22:03






  • 1





    I forgot to mention i'm going for this, good call

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:09












  • 1





    If going to all the work to insulate why not put some poly line for hydronic heating, if you work in your garage in the winter it is really nice to have a warm floor. I did that with 1 bay in my last home and it almost kept the shop warm if I would have done all 3 I would not have needed the heater. But with hydronic heat it needs to be on for a long time so I used to keep mine at 50 and turn it up to 70 while I was in the shop.

    – Ed Beal
    May 30 at 22:03






  • 1





    I forgot to mention i'm going for this, good call

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:09







1




1





If going to all the work to insulate why not put some poly line for hydronic heating, if you work in your garage in the winter it is really nice to have a warm floor. I did that with 1 bay in my last home and it almost kept the shop warm if I would have done all 3 I would not have needed the heater. But with hydronic heat it needs to be on for a long time so I used to keep mine at 50 and turn it up to 70 while I was in the shop.

– Ed Beal
May 30 at 22:03





If going to all the work to insulate why not put some poly line for hydronic heating, if you work in your garage in the winter it is really nice to have a warm floor. I did that with 1 bay in my last home and it almost kept the shop warm if I would have done all 3 I would not have needed the heater. But with hydronic heat it needs to be on for a long time so I used to keep mine at 50 and turn it up to 70 while I was in the shop.

– Ed Beal
May 30 at 22:03




1




1





I forgot to mention i'm going for this, good call

– Jeffyx
May 31 at 12:09





I forgot to mention i'm going for this, good call

– Jeffyx
May 31 at 12:09










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















31














By way of example, the pink Owens-Corning FOAMULAR 250 product and the blue DOW STYROFOAM Brand SM product rated for 25 and 30 psi compressive strength respectively. If weight is distributed and applied evenly a square foot of FOAMULAR 250 could support 25*12*12=3600 pounds at its limit while the STYROFOAM could support 4320 pounds. A footnote in the data sheet qualifies this as "at yield or 10% deflection, whichever occurs first."



The weight of concrete varies but 150 pounds per cubic foot is a common approximation. Then a square foot of concrete, half a foot thick, should weigh about 75 pounds. That leaves at least 3500 pounds of weight carrying capacity before the foam below the concrete would fail.



The weight of a vehicle sits on the contact patch of its tires. If we consider a hypothetical 8000 pound pickup truck with 70% of its weight on the front tires, that's 2800 pounds per tire. (Maybe a 70/30 distribution of weight is extreme; I don't know.)



The tire contact patch is much smaller than the square foot we've been thinking about, so it would seem that the load might be too concentrated and would crush the foam. Indeed if the tire rolled directly over the foam it likely would be crushed. Fortunately the reinforced concrete does a pretty good job of spreading the load. The weight on that tire contact patch is spread over a larger area of foam and it all works out.



On a related note, enormous foam blocks can be used instead of soil as fill in construction projects like bridge abutments, roadways, etc. See Geofoam.






share|improve this answer























  • That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:12











  • You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

    – Harper
    Jun 1 at 6:14












  • @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

    – Alex
    Jun 1 at 16:31






  • 1





    @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

    – Alex
    Jun 2 at 0:27







  • 1





    @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

    – Alex
    Jun 2 at 7:39


















3














Foam insulation is designed with a loading value per unit area and as long as that loading is not exceeded it will not deform.



When we designed the insulation for the base of our property we specified an 8” thickness of a particular grade of foam board. The builder ordered a different board and we had to check to see if it was sufficiently strong - luckily it was...






share|improve this answer






























    3














    XPS and EPS rigid insulation is used under concrete slabs.



    They both come in various rated compressive strengths from 10 psi to about 80 psi.



    Say you use an average (and relatively inexpensive) rating of 40 psi, then the insulation will support: 40 psi x 8” wide tire x 12” long tire print = 3,840 lbs. at each tire. (Total load supported would be: 3,840 lbs. x 4 tires = 15,360 lbs. )



    Actually, the maximum load would be significantly more, because the load would be transferred through the slab at a 45 degree angle. So, the actual “footprint “ on the insulation would be about double the area...thus double the allowable load.



    Here’s a site that explains the use of rigid insulation under slabs. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/choosing-between-eps-and-xps-rigid-insulation_o



    There is some logic to not using insulation, unless the garage is being heated.



    BTW, I don’t recommend the use of wire mesh in garage slabs. They make them crack.






    share|improve this answer























    • I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

      – Keeta
      May 31 at 12:01











    • I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

      – FreeMan
      May 31 at 13:22











    • @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

      – Lee Sam
      May 31 at 14:45











    Your Answer








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    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes








    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    31














    By way of example, the pink Owens-Corning FOAMULAR 250 product and the blue DOW STYROFOAM Brand SM product rated for 25 and 30 psi compressive strength respectively. If weight is distributed and applied evenly a square foot of FOAMULAR 250 could support 25*12*12=3600 pounds at its limit while the STYROFOAM could support 4320 pounds. A footnote in the data sheet qualifies this as "at yield or 10% deflection, whichever occurs first."



    The weight of concrete varies but 150 pounds per cubic foot is a common approximation. Then a square foot of concrete, half a foot thick, should weigh about 75 pounds. That leaves at least 3500 pounds of weight carrying capacity before the foam below the concrete would fail.



    The weight of a vehicle sits on the contact patch of its tires. If we consider a hypothetical 8000 pound pickup truck with 70% of its weight on the front tires, that's 2800 pounds per tire. (Maybe a 70/30 distribution of weight is extreme; I don't know.)



    The tire contact patch is much smaller than the square foot we've been thinking about, so it would seem that the load might be too concentrated and would crush the foam. Indeed if the tire rolled directly over the foam it likely would be crushed. Fortunately the reinforced concrete does a pretty good job of spreading the load. The weight on that tire contact patch is spread over a larger area of foam and it all works out.



    On a related note, enormous foam blocks can be used instead of soil as fill in construction projects like bridge abutments, roadways, etc. See Geofoam.






    share|improve this answer























    • That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

      – Jeffyx
      May 31 at 12:12











    • You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

      – Harper
      Jun 1 at 6:14












    • @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

      – Alex
      Jun 1 at 16:31






    • 1





      @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 0:27







    • 1





      @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 7:39















    31














    By way of example, the pink Owens-Corning FOAMULAR 250 product and the blue DOW STYROFOAM Brand SM product rated for 25 and 30 psi compressive strength respectively. If weight is distributed and applied evenly a square foot of FOAMULAR 250 could support 25*12*12=3600 pounds at its limit while the STYROFOAM could support 4320 pounds. A footnote in the data sheet qualifies this as "at yield or 10% deflection, whichever occurs first."



    The weight of concrete varies but 150 pounds per cubic foot is a common approximation. Then a square foot of concrete, half a foot thick, should weigh about 75 pounds. That leaves at least 3500 pounds of weight carrying capacity before the foam below the concrete would fail.



    The weight of a vehicle sits on the contact patch of its tires. If we consider a hypothetical 8000 pound pickup truck with 70% of its weight on the front tires, that's 2800 pounds per tire. (Maybe a 70/30 distribution of weight is extreme; I don't know.)



    The tire contact patch is much smaller than the square foot we've been thinking about, so it would seem that the load might be too concentrated and would crush the foam. Indeed if the tire rolled directly over the foam it likely would be crushed. Fortunately the reinforced concrete does a pretty good job of spreading the load. The weight on that tire contact patch is spread over a larger area of foam and it all works out.



    On a related note, enormous foam blocks can be used instead of soil as fill in construction projects like bridge abutments, roadways, etc. See Geofoam.






    share|improve this answer























    • That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

      – Jeffyx
      May 31 at 12:12











    • You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

      – Harper
      Jun 1 at 6:14












    • @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

      – Alex
      Jun 1 at 16:31






    • 1





      @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 0:27







    • 1





      @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 7:39













    31












    31








    31







    By way of example, the pink Owens-Corning FOAMULAR 250 product and the blue DOW STYROFOAM Brand SM product rated for 25 and 30 psi compressive strength respectively. If weight is distributed and applied evenly a square foot of FOAMULAR 250 could support 25*12*12=3600 pounds at its limit while the STYROFOAM could support 4320 pounds. A footnote in the data sheet qualifies this as "at yield or 10% deflection, whichever occurs first."



    The weight of concrete varies but 150 pounds per cubic foot is a common approximation. Then a square foot of concrete, half a foot thick, should weigh about 75 pounds. That leaves at least 3500 pounds of weight carrying capacity before the foam below the concrete would fail.



    The weight of a vehicle sits on the contact patch of its tires. If we consider a hypothetical 8000 pound pickup truck with 70% of its weight on the front tires, that's 2800 pounds per tire. (Maybe a 70/30 distribution of weight is extreme; I don't know.)



    The tire contact patch is much smaller than the square foot we've been thinking about, so it would seem that the load might be too concentrated and would crush the foam. Indeed if the tire rolled directly over the foam it likely would be crushed. Fortunately the reinforced concrete does a pretty good job of spreading the load. The weight on that tire contact patch is spread over a larger area of foam and it all works out.



    On a related note, enormous foam blocks can be used instead of soil as fill in construction projects like bridge abutments, roadways, etc. See Geofoam.






    share|improve this answer













    By way of example, the pink Owens-Corning FOAMULAR 250 product and the blue DOW STYROFOAM Brand SM product rated for 25 and 30 psi compressive strength respectively. If weight is distributed and applied evenly a square foot of FOAMULAR 250 could support 25*12*12=3600 pounds at its limit while the STYROFOAM could support 4320 pounds. A footnote in the data sheet qualifies this as "at yield or 10% deflection, whichever occurs first."



    The weight of concrete varies but 150 pounds per cubic foot is a common approximation. Then a square foot of concrete, half a foot thick, should weigh about 75 pounds. That leaves at least 3500 pounds of weight carrying capacity before the foam below the concrete would fail.



    The weight of a vehicle sits on the contact patch of its tires. If we consider a hypothetical 8000 pound pickup truck with 70% of its weight on the front tires, that's 2800 pounds per tire. (Maybe a 70/30 distribution of weight is extreme; I don't know.)



    The tire contact patch is much smaller than the square foot we've been thinking about, so it would seem that the load might be too concentrated and would crush the foam. Indeed if the tire rolled directly over the foam it likely would be crushed. Fortunately the reinforced concrete does a pretty good job of spreading the load. The weight on that tire contact patch is spread over a larger area of foam and it all works out.



    On a related note, enormous foam blocks can be used instead of soil as fill in construction projects like bridge abutments, roadways, etc. See Geofoam.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered May 30 at 22:47









    Greg HillGreg Hill

    1,17158




    1,17158












    • That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

      – Jeffyx
      May 31 at 12:12











    • You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

      – Harper
      Jun 1 at 6:14












    • @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

      – Alex
      Jun 1 at 16:31






    • 1





      @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 0:27







    • 1





      @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 7:39

















    • That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

      – Jeffyx
      May 31 at 12:12











    • You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

      – Harper
      Jun 1 at 6:14












    • @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

      – Alex
      Jun 1 at 16:31






    • 1





      @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 0:27







    • 1





      @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

      – Alex
      Jun 2 at 7:39
















    That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:12





    That geofoam is amazing stuff. Also thanks for showing me the math!

    – Jeffyx
    May 31 at 12:12













    You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

    – Harper
    Jun 1 at 6:14






    You don't need to do any hard math to turn an automobile's weight or distribution into earth-crush PSI... just stick a $5 tire gauge on it and measure the PSI of your tires. Yeah, it really is that simple.

    – Harper
    Jun 1 at 6:14














    @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

    – Alex
    Jun 1 at 16:31





    @Harper Assuming that you start with atmospheric pressure in the tires or what?

    – Alex
    Jun 1 at 16:31




    1




    1





    @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

    – Alex
    Jun 2 at 0:27






    @Harper That would give you a maximum possible value in that case. A lightweight racing bicycle with 110psi tires would obviously not give you 110 psi earth crushing power, and it would roll over the styrofoam just fine.

    – Alex
    Jun 2 at 0:27





    1




    1





    @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

    – Alex
    Jun 2 at 7:39





    @RossMillikan Real tires, in contrast to theoreticall ones, have rubber between the compressed air and the ground. Rubber is soft and deforms on its own, even if the airpocket inside would have been filled with hard solid steel. The contact area is not linear with the internal pressure when you get up to high pressures.

    – Alex
    Jun 2 at 7:39













    3














    Foam insulation is designed with a loading value per unit area and as long as that loading is not exceeded it will not deform.



    When we designed the insulation for the base of our property we specified an 8” thickness of a particular grade of foam board. The builder ordered a different board and we had to check to see if it was sufficiently strong - luckily it was...






    share|improve this answer



























      3














      Foam insulation is designed with a loading value per unit area and as long as that loading is not exceeded it will not deform.



      When we designed the insulation for the base of our property we specified an 8” thickness of a particular grade of foam board. The builder ordered a different board and we had to check to see if it was sufficiently strong - luckily it was...






      share|improve this answer

























        3












        3








        3







        Foam insulation is designed with a loading value per unit area and as long as that loading is not exceeded it will not deform.



        When we designed the insulation for the base of our property we specified an 8” thickness of a particular grade of foam board. The builder ordered a different board and we had to check to see if it was sufficiently strong - luckily it was...






        share|improve this answer













        Foam insulation is designed with a loading value per unit area and as long as that loading is not exceeded it will not deform.



        When we designed the insulation for the base of our property we specified an 8” thickness of a particular grade of foam board. The builder ordered a different board and we had to check to see if it was sufficiently strong - luckily it was...







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered May 30 at 21:30









        Solar MikeSolar Mike

        2,738313




        2,738313





















            3














            XPS and EPS rigid insulation is used under concrete slabs.



            They both come in various rated compressive strengths from 10 psi to about 80 psi.



            Say you use an average (and relatively inexpensive) rating of 40 psi, then the insulation will support: 40 psi x 8” wide tire x 12” long tire print = 3,840 lbs. at each tire. (Total load supported would be: 3,840 lbs. x 4 tires = 15,360 lbs. )



            Actually, the maximum load would be significantly more, because the load would be transferred through the slab at a 45 degree angle. So, the actual “footprint “ on the insulation would be about double the area...thus double the allowable load.



            Here’s a site that explains the use of rigid insulation under slabs. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/choosing-between-eps-and-xps-rigid-insulation_o



            There is some logic to not using insulation, unless the garage is being heated.



            BTW, I don’t recommend the use of wire mesh in garage slabs. They make them crack.






            share|improve this answer























            • I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

              – Keeta
              May 31 at 12:01











            • I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

              – FreeMan
              May 31 at 13:22











            • @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

              – Lee Sam
              May 31 at 14:45















            3














            XPS and EPS rigid insulation is used under concrete slabs.



            They both come in various rated compressive strengths from 10 psi to about 80 psi.



            Say you use an average (and relatively inexpensive) rating of 40 psi, then the insulation will support: 40 psi x 8” wide tire x 12” long tire print = 3,840 lbs. at each tire. (Total load supported would be: 3,840 lbs. x 4 tires = 15,360 lbs. )



            Actually, the maximum load would be significantly more, because the load would be transferred through the slab at a 45 degree angle. So, the actual “footprint “ on the insulation would be about double the area...thus double the allowable load.



            Here’s a site that explains the use of rigid insulation under slabs. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/choosing-between-eps-and-xps-rigid-insulation_o



            There is some logic to not using insulation, unless the garage is being heated.



            BTW, I don’t recommend the use of wire mesh in garage slabs. They make them crack.






            share|improve this answer























            • I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

              – Keeta
              May 31 at 12:01











            • I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

              – FreeMan
              May 31 at 13:22











            • @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

              – Lee Sam
              May 31 at 14:45













            3












            3








            3







            XPS and EPS rigid insulation is used under concrete slabs.



            They both come in various rated compressive strengths from 10 psi to about 80 psi.



            Say you use an average (and relatively inexpensive) rating of 40 psi, then the insulation will support: 40 psi x 8” wide tire x 12” long tire print = 3,840 lbs. at each tire. (Total load supported would be: 3,840 lbs. x 4 tires = 15,360 lbs. )



            Actually, the maximum load would be significantly more, because the load would be transferred through the slab at a 45 degree angle. So, the actual “footprint “ on the insulation would be about double the area...thus double the allowable load.



            Here’s a site that explains the use of rigid insulation under slabs. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/choosing-between-eps-and-xps-rigid-insulation_o



            There is some logic to not using insulation, unless the garage is being heated.



            BTW, I don’t recommend the use of wire mesh in garage slabs. They make them crack.






            share|improve this answer













            XPS and EPS rigid insulation is used under concrete slabs.



            They both come in various rated compressive strengths from 10 psi to about 80 psi.



            Say you use an average (and relatively inexpensive) rating of 40 psi, then the insulation will support: 40 psi x 8” wide tire x 12” long tire print = 3,840 lbs. at each tire. (Total load supported would be: 3,840 lbs. x 4 tires = 15,360 lbs. )



            Actually, the maximum load would be significantly more, because the load would be transferred through the slab at a 45 degree angle. So, the actual “footprint “ on the insulation would be about double the area...thus double the allowable load.



            Here’s a site that explains the use of rigid insulation under slabs. https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/site-prep/choosing-between-eps-and-xps-rigid-insulation_o



            There is some logic to not using insulation, unless the garage is being heated.



            BTW, I don’t recommend the use of wire mesh in garage slabs. They make them crack.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered May 30 at 22:02









            Lee SamLee Sam

            12k3819




            12k3819












            • I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

              – Keeta
              May 31 at 12:01











            • I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

              – FreeMan
              May 31 at 13:22











            • @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

              – Lee Sam
              May 31 at 14:45

















            • I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

              – Keeta
              May 31 at 12:01











            • I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

              – FreeMan
              May 31 at 13:22











            • @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

              – Lee Sam
              May 31 at 14:45
















            I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

            – Keeta
            May 31 at 12:01





            I worked with concrete for years as a foreman, I would tell customers two guarantees about concrete: 1) It will harden 2) It will crack. You add control joints in concrete to control where it will crack. If you don't, it will crack along the line of least resistance, which will be along any rebar or along any wire mesh. Adding of that "BTW" weakens this answer.

            – Keeta
            May 31 at 12:01













            I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

            – FreeMan
            May 31 at 13:22





            I'm guessing you're used to working with heavy trucks if you think an 8"x12" contact patch is what springs to mind!

            – FreeMan
            May 31 at 13:22













            @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

            – Lee Sam
            May 31 at 14:45





            @Keeta Yes, control joints are a must, but wire mesh “creates” cracks because it’s too small and gets pushed to the bottom of the slab and is allowed to extend through the control joints. Rebar in slabs is fine if installed in the middle of the slab.

            – Lee Sam
            May 31 at 14:45










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