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How can I fix this gap between bookcases I made?


How do I make built-in bookcases for the corners of a room?Have our worktops been fitted wrong?How can wood be bent this way?How do I fix a sticky spot on furniture made by a rubber ball?Can I build a vanity, or am I in over my head?Built-in bookshelf questionsHow to connect two bed legs to make a bunk bed from two regular beds?How can I find the part to fix this bookshelf?What's the right type of lumber to construct a small TV platform?Which insulation for gap between plasterboard and subfloor?






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13















I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)



Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.



enter image description here



Any suggestions would be appreciated!










share|improve this question

















  • 16





    Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 11





    You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 1





    @MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.

    – Jasper
    yesterday











  • @MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.

    – Eric Lippert
    1 hour ago

















13















I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)



Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.



enter image description here



Any suggestions would be appreciated!










share|improve this question

















  • 16





    Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 11





    You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 1





    @MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.

    – Jasper
    yesterday











  • @MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.

    – Eric Lippert
    1 hour ago













13












13








13


1






I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)



Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.



enter image description here



Any suggestions would be appreciated!










share|improve this question














I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.)



Any suggestions on how I can make this look a little less crappy? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface.



enter image description here



Any suggestions would be appreciated!







woodworking furniture carpentry






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked yesterday









johnnyb1970johnnyb1970

423312




423312







  • 16





    Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 11





    You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 1





    @MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.

    – Jasper
    yesterday











  • @MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.

    – Eric Lippert
    1 hour ago












  • 16





    Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 11





    You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.

    – Michael Karas
    yesterday






  • 1





    @MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.

    – Jasper
    yesterday











  • @MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.

    – Eric Lippert
    1 hour ago







16




16





Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?

– Michael Karas
yesterday





Is it possible that some portion of the gap is due to variation of the floor?

– Michael Karas
yesterday




11




11





You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.

– Michael Karas
yesterday





You should get a tool called a framing square so that you can check squareness rather than guess. Maybe it is possible for you to remove the back of one unit and spring the shelves into square and reattach the back to hold it in the square shape. It is not quite clear how the backs are fabricated and the worst could be that you would have to make a new back.

– Michael Karas
yesterday




1




1





@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.

– Jasper
yesterday





@MichaelKaras -- Your comments would make a good answer.

– Jasper
yesterday













@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.

– Eric Lippert
1 hour ago





@MichaelKaras: This is good advice, but I would add: check the framing square for squareness! I once spent a frustrating hour trying to figure out why no matter how I tried, the jig I was building would not come out square. I realized eventually that I was not crazy, it was the square that was wrong. A solid steel square presumably made by professionals was 89 degrees.

– Eric Lippert
1 hour ago










5 Answers
5






active

oldest

votes


















44














Swap their positions.



Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.



Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.



If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.






share|improve this answer


















  • 17





    Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

    – bitsmack
    20 hours ago











  • It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

    – Ismael Miguel
    8 hours ago


















26














You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.



If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.






share|improve this answer























  • Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago












  • @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago











  • I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago






  • 2





    Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago







  • 3





    @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago



















23














Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

    – ruffle
    yesterday







  • 3





    Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

    – RedSonja
    19 hours ago






  • 1





    So you had frame square or went and bought one?

    – Solar Mike
    18 hours ago











  • I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

    – johnnyb1970
    5 hours ago


















6














I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.






share|improve this answer








New contributor




Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

    – johnnyb1970
    5 hours ago


















5














If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.






share|improve this answer























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    5 Answers
    5






    active

    oldest

    votes








    5 Answers
    5






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    44














    Swap their positions.



    Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.



    Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.



    If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.






    share|improve this answer


















    • 17





      Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

      – bitsmack
      20 hours ago











    • It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

      – Ismael Miguel
      8 hours ago















    44














    Swap their positions.



    Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.



    Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.



    If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.






    share|improve this answer


















    • 17





      Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

      – bitsmack
      20 hours ago











    • It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

      – Ismael Miguel
      8 hours ago













    44












    44








    44







    Swap their positions.



    Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.



    Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.



    If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.






    share|improve this answer













    Swap their positions.



    Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. This will eliminate the gap between the tops.



    Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears.



    If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered yesterday









    A. I. BreveleriA. I. Breveleri

    7,6771924




    7,6771924







    • 17





      Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

      – bitsmack
      20 hours ago











    • It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

      – Ismael Miguel
      8 hours ago












    • 17





      Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

      – bitsmack
      20 hours ago











    • It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

      – Ismael Miguel
      8 hours ago







    17




    17





    Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

    – bitsmack
    20 hours ago





    Another benefit to swapping them is you can see if the problem is actually caused by an uneven floor.

    – bitsmack
    20 hours ago













    It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

    – Ismael Miguel
    8 hours ago





    It's funny that the best solution (in my opinion) is a quick bodge.

    – Ismael Miguel
    8 hours ago













    26














    You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.



    If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.






    share|improve this answer























    • Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago












    • @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago











    • I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago






    • 2





      Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago







    • 3





      @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago
















    26














    You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.



    If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.






    share|improve this answer























    • Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago












    • @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago











    • I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago






    • 2





      Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago







    • 3





      @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago














    26












    26








    26







    You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.



    If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.






    share|improve this answer













    You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... That will tell you if either or both units are out of square.



    If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered yesterday









    Solar MikeSolar Mike

    96028




    96028












    • Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago












    • @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago











    • I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago






    • 2





      Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago







    • 3





      @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago


















    • Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago












    • @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago











    • I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago






    • 2





      Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

      – WoJ
      13 hours ago







    • 3





      @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago

















    Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago






    Would,'t measuring the diagonals only help in the case of a general quadrilateral? If this is a parallelogram or a symmetrical trapeze the diagonals will be the same. making sure that $height^2 + length^2 = diagonal^2$ would check for right angles

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago














    @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago





    @WoJ well if you want a bookcase with a sloping side then use Pythagoras...

    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago













    I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago





    I do not understand your comment. You suggest to measure diagonals instead of using a framing square but I think it will only cover a subset of the cases. Am I missing something?

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago




    2




    2





    Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago






    Well, yes they won't. That's my point. Neither for a parallelogram, a trapezoid, ... The diagonals will be equal, like for a square.

    – WoJ
    13 hours ago





    3




    3





    @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago






    @WoJ a parallogram does not have equal diagonals, but they do bisect each other... So, the method I suggested is still valid. You may find this helpful : mathplanet.com/education/geometry/quadrilaterals/…

    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago












    23














    Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!






    share|improve this answer


















    • 1





      Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

      – ruffle
      yesterday







    • 3





      Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

      – RedSonja
      19 hours ago






    • 1





      So you had frame square or went and bought one?

      – Solar Mike
      18 hours ago











    • I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago















    23














    Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!






    share|improve this answer


















    • 1





      Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

      – ruffle
      yesterday







    • 3





      Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

      – RedSonja
      19 hours ago






    • 1





      So you had frame square or went and bought one?

      – Solar Mike
      18 hours ago











    • I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago













    23












    23








    23







    Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!






    share|improve this answer













    Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. Thanks for the input!







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered yesterday









    johnnyb1970johnnyb1970

    423312




    423312







    • 1





      Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

      – ruffle
      yesterday







    • 3





      Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

      – RedSonja
      19 hours ago






    • 1





      So you had frame square or went and bought one?

      – Solar Mike
      18 hours ago











    • I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago












    • 1





      Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

      – ruffle
      yesterday







    • 3





      Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

      – RedSonja
      19 hours ago






    • 1





      So you had frame square or went and bought one?

      – Solar Mike
      18 hours ago











    • I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago







    1




    1





    Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

    – ruffle
    yesterday






    Yes - this is certainly the correct answer. It is not a huge gap and the force required to push the backless bookcase into a cuboid is unlikely to be too great to be held by a few panel pins once you put the back back on. They look like nice bookcases, and good luck!

    – ruffle
    yesterday





    3




    3





    Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

    – RedSonja
    19 hours ago





    Still, it is often the case in older houses (and sometimes in new ones) that the floor is not flat. You need to level them with a spirit level and some kind of shims so they are perfectly level. Then you could consider screwing them together top and bottom.

    – RedSonja
    19 hours ago




    1




    1





    So you had frame square or went and bought one?

    – Solar Mike
    18 hours ago





    So you had frame square or went and bought one?

    – Solar Mike
    18 hours ago













    I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

    – johnnyb1970
    5 hours ago





    I didn't buy a framing square (although it's on my list--I used to have one but it's disappeared). But I used my smallish rafter square on the corner of the left bookcase and it looked out of square. I then made an ad-hoc plumb line and used that to verify that the left bookcase was indeed racked to the left. The right one was square.

    – johnnyb1970
    5 hours ago











    6














    I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.




















    • Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago















    6














    I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.




















    • Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago













    6












    6








    6







    I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.










    I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight.







    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.









    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer






    New contributor




    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.









    answered 19 hours ago









    DorisDoris

    1612




    1612




    New contributor




    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.





    New contributor





    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.






    Doris is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.












    • Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago

















    • Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

      – johnnyb1970
      5 hours ago
















    Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

    – johnnyb1970
    5 hours ago





    Thanks--those look like they would be helpful.

    – johnnyb1970
    5 hours ago











    5














    If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.






    share|improve this answer



























      5














      If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.






      share|improve this answer

























        5












        5








        5







        If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.






        share|improve this answer













        If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units. Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered yesterday









        Jim StewartJim Stewart

        11.9k11332




        11.9k11332



























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