Strat tremolo bar has tightening issues
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Strat tremolo bar has tightening issues
I got a standard American strat from 2015. When I tighten the trem bar, the bar stops tightening right over the strings. However when I loosen it, one turn and it flops around all over the damn place. What can I do?
stratocaster
New contributor
add a comment |
I got a standard American strat from 2015. When I tighten the trem bar, the bar stops tightening right over the strings. However when I loosen it, one turn and it flops around all over the damn place. What can I do?
stratocaster
New contributor
add a comment |
I got a standard American strat from 2015. When I tighten the trem bar, the bar stops tightening right over the strings. However when I loosen it, one turn and it flops around all over the damn place. What can I do?
stratocaster
New contributor
I got a standard American strat from 2015. When I tighten the trem bar, the bar stops tightening right over the strings. However when I loosen it, one turn and it flops around all over the damn place. What can I do?
stratocaster
stratocaster
New contributor
New contributor
New contributor
asked Jun 2 at 9:13
Juno CJuno C
284
284
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3 Answers
3
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votes
I see two courses of action...
You could just take the damn thing off altogether, as I did 40 years ago ;-) or
Get a roll of plumber's PTFE tape from a hardware/DIY store & wrap it round the thread until you achieve just the right resistance.
PTFE is "Teflon" so it will never stick or jam. It is so thin you could probably get 5 - 10 wraps before it's too thick to screw in, so you will have a lot of room for fine adjustment.
Added bonus, it will never leak ;-)
For the plumbing junkies out there, PTFE is polytetrafluoroethylene
After comments:
Don't use any kind of sticky tape. It will come back to haunt you.
There's a really specific reason to use PTFE, & it's because it never changes state, doesn't get sticky, doesn't dry out.
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
1
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
|
show 1 more comment
If yours has a blind hole - which doesn't go all the way through - you can use a small coil spring - 5mm or 6mm - depending on the diameter of the vib. arm. It will produce tension as it gets tightened onto. Or even a small cylinder of rubber in the hole. It is about the only part of Strats that, in my opinion,, never got sorted. All the ones I've used had a terrible fit between the thread in the vib. and the thread on the bar itself. If I played Strats regularly, I reckon I'd have put helicoils in.
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
add a comment |
I haven't had a strat in a few years, but if memory serves me I had a similar problem. On the Stew Mac website, I purchased a small spring to go into the assembly. It provided enough resistance to position it the way I liked. I hope that helps.
Here's a link:
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Tremolo_Parts/Trem_Arm_Tension_Spring.html
New contributor
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
I see two courses of action...
You could just take the damn thing off altogether, as I did 40 years ago ;-) or
Get a roll of plumber's PTFE tape from a hardware/DIY store & wrap it round the thread until you achieve just the right resistance.
PTFE is "Teflon" so it will never stick or jam. It is so thin you could probably get 5 - 10 wraps before it's too thick to screw in, so you will have a lot of room for fine adjustment.
Added bonus, it will never leak ;-)
For the plumbing junkies out there, PTFE is polytetrafluoroethylene
After comments:
Don't use any kind of sticky tape. It will come back to haunt you.
There's a really specific reason to use PTFE, & it's because it never changes state, doesn't get sticky, doesn't dry out.
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
1
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
|
show 1 more comment
I see two courses of action...
You could just take the damn thing off altogether, as I did 40 years ago ;-) or
Get a roll of plumber's PTFE tape from a hardware/DIY store & wrap it round the thread until you achieve just the right resistance.
PTFE is "Teflon" so it will never stick or jam. It is so thin you could probably get 5 - 10 wraps before it's too thick to screw in, so you will have a lot of room for fine adjustment.
Added bonus, it will never leak ;-)
For the plumbing junkies out there, PTFE is polytetrafluoroethylene
After comments:
Don't use any kind of sticky tape. It will come back to haunt you.
There's a really specific reason to use PTFE, & it's because it never changes state, doesn't get sticky, doesn't dry out.
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
1
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
|
show 1 more comment
I see two courses of action...
You could just take the damn thing off altogether, as I did 40 years ago ;-) or
Get a roll of plumber's PTFE tape from a hardware/DIY store & wrap it round the thread until you achieve just the right resistance.
PTFE is "Teflon" so it will never stick or jam. It is so thin you could probably get 5 - 10 wraps before it's too thick to screw in, so you will have a lot of room for fine adjustment.
Added bonus, it will never leak ;-)
For the plumbing junkies out there, PTFE is polytetrafluoroethylene
After comments:
Don't use any kind of sticky tape. It will come back to haunt you.
There's a really specific reason to use PTFE, & it's because it never changes state, doesn't get sticky, doesn't dry out.
I see two courses of action...
You could just take the damn thing off altogether, as I did 40 years ago ;-) or
Get a roll of plumber's PTFE tape from a hardware/DIY store & wrap it round the thread until you achieve just the right resistance.
PTFE is "Teflon" so it will never stick or jam. It is so thin you could probably get 5 - 10 wraps before it's too thick to screw in, so you will have a lot of room for fine adjustment.
Added bonus, it will never leak ;-)
For the plumbing junkies out there, PTFE is polytetrafluoroethylene
After comments:
Don't use any kind of sticky tape. It will come back to haunt you.
There's a really specific reason to use PTFE, & it's because it never changes state, doesn't get sticky, doesn't dry out.
edited Jun 4 at 10:00
answered Jun 2 at 9:44
TetsujinTetsujin
9,04421937
9,04421937
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
1
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
|
show 1 more comment
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
1
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
And I thought it stood for 'Plumber's Tape For Everything...
– Tim
Jun 2 at 10:00
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
#2 is a clever solution, and I don't know why I never thought of it. Probably because I too settled on #1 long ago ;)
– David Bowling
Jun 2 at 16:22
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
I settled on #1 but as the son of a plumber, #2 is never too far away in my head for 'threaded things'.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 16:24
1
1
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
holy crap tape worked. it wasnt teflon, it was this matte scotch tape but it works exactly how i wanted it to
– Juno C
Jun 3 at 8:00
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
Amazing what 30 pence-worth of tape can do ;-)
– Tetsujin
Jun 3 at 11:59
|
show 1 more comment
If yours has a blind hole - which doesn't go all the way through - you can use a small coil spring - 5mm or 6mm - depending on the diameter of the vib. arm. It will produce tension as it gets tightened onto. Or even a small cylinder of rubber in the hole. It is about the only part of Strats that, in my opinion,, never got sorted. All the ones I've used had a terrible fit between the thread in the vib. and the thread on the bar itself. If I played Strats regularly, I reckon I'd have put helicoils in.
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
add a comment |
If yours has a blind hole - which doesn't go all the way through - you can use a small coil spring - 5mm or 6mm - depending on the diameter of the vib. arm. It will produce tension as it gets tightened onto. Or even a small cylinder of rubber in the hole. It is about the only part of Strats that, in my opinion,, never got sorted. All the ones I've used had a terrible fit between the thread in the vib. and the thread on the bar itself. If I played Strats regularly, I reckon I'd have put helicoils in.
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
add a comment |
If yours has a blind hole - which doesn't go all the way through - you can use a small coil spring - 5mm or 6mm - depending on the diameter of the vib. arm. It will produce tension as it gets tightened onto. Or even a small cylinder of rubber in the hole. It is about the only part of Strats that, in my opinion,, never got sorted. All the ones I've used had a terrible fit between the thread in the vib. and the thread on the bar itself. If I played Strats regularly, I reckon I'd have put helicoils in.
If yours has a blind hole - which doesn't go all the way through - you can use a small coil spring - 5mm or 6mm - depending on the diameter of the vib. arm. It will produce tension as it gets tightened onto. Or even a small cylinder of rubber in the hole. It is about the only part of Strats that, in my opinion,, never got sorted. All the ones I've used had a terrible fit between the thread in the vib. and the thread on the bar itself. If I played Strats regularly, I reckon I'd have put helicoils in.
answered Jun 2 at 10:06
TimTim
108k11107275
108k11107275
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
add a comment |
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
Probably different for a one-off on a guitar, but I used to work with a lot of aluminium structures with helicoils; great while they work, but if anyone ever cross-threads one, you rupture the helicoil & end up with a stuck bolt in a spinning structure that then needs to be drilled or sawn out.
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 10:12
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
@Tetsujin - true - but if one crossthreads the original bridge, it's just as problematic. Which is probably why the thread is so sloppy - to stop that happening..!
– Tim
Jun 2 at 11:13
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
Very probably. tbh, I't's not a problem I've really had to suffer. I think I started removing the trem & locking the bridge down in the 80's, about the same time everybody started getting into those huge swoop-dives; I decided enough was enough ;)
– Tetsujin
Jun 2 at 11:18
add a comment |
I haven't had a strat in a few years, but if memory serves me I had a similar problem. On the Stew Mac website, I purchased a small spring to go into the assembly. It provided enough resistance to position it the way I liked. I hope that helps.
Here's a link:
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Tremolo_Parts/Trem_Arm_Tension_Spring.html
New contributor
add a comment |
I haven't had a strat in a few years, but if memory serves me I had a similar problem. On the Stew Mac website, I purchased a small spring to go into the assembly. It provided enough resistance to position it the way I liked. I hope that helps.
Here's a link:
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Tremolo_Parts/Trem_Arm_Tension_Spring.html
New contributor
add a comment |
I haven't had a strat in a few years, but if memory serves me I had a similar problem. On the Stew Mac website, I purchased a small spring to go into the assembly. It provided enough resistance to position it the way I liked. I hope that helps.
Here's a link:
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Tremolo_Parts/Trem_Arm_Tension_Spring.html
New contributor
I haven't had a strat in a few years, but if memory serves me I had a similar problem. On the Stew Mac website, I purchased a small spring to go into the assembly. It provided enough resistance to position it the way I liked. I hope that helps.
Here's a link:
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Electric_Guitar/Tremolo_Parts/Trem_Arm_Tension_Spring.html
New contributor
New contributor
answered Jun 4 at 18:42
Victor CaamañoVictor Caamaño
1
1
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
Juno C is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Juno C is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Juno C is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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